Did the lame tourist thing and got into a cab and drove around. (lame, I know- I’d rather have gotten into a bus, and gotten lost downtown). Anyway, went and had chips mayai (omelette made with french-fries) which a tanzanian ex introduced me to, at this really dingy place… really dingy. Not really a hotel or a banda, just a guy with a charcoal stove, a karai with hot oil, and a little contraption (don’t know what to call it) to hold the fries, tomatoes, unappetizing looking sausages etc. I think my ex and I can make better chips mayai than Juma (‘chef’s’ name). Anyway, we were sitting next to these 3 women, unwillingly eavesdropping (they were loud). This woman was talking about her neighbour who beats her husband, and the entire ‘hood’ can hear.
She was like, “ai, I think those ones… I don’t even know, maybe that’s what they like. Because im telling you she beats him... all the time, sometimes he just gets home and she’s ready… everyone can hear him… and its not like he’s going anywhere… she’s been beating him since they got married.”
Her friend was like, “no, maybe she put a spell on him (amemroga)”. Which apparently Tanzanians are the most superstitious people on the planet). “He doesn’t have family or friends? How does one just let their friend be beaten by the wife. Or that’s how they get down?”
Hilarious conversation… but I hadn’t realised how superstitious tzedians are… actually not just superstitious but apparently a lot of uchawi (witchcraft) happens here, its even in the news.
Two stories…. There’s a govt official who went to the states about 8 months ago, and he died and was buried in the states. So we were listening to the radio and people were complaining that it was mysterious circumstances, they think the president had a hand in it, (apparently Bagamoyo, where the president is from, is known for this shit) in fact they heard he’d gone to visit said minister… they want an official statement.. so the president came on the radio and was saying, ‘tanzanians, here no one can ever die of natural means/causes- its always a case of amerogwa –he’s been cursed. Now even I am being accused…
There’s been stories of people kidnapping albinos to use in some sort of uchawi that enables one to get lots of money. Apparently it got so bad that they government issued a statement- babbiez told me there’s a word (I forget) that it’s banned to speak- because people would say that word whenever an albino passed and apparently it means something bad.
I have to find some news clippings, cause this shit sounds unbelievable. This one guy who was trying to sell me cheap jewellery (really insisting) was like, or should I give it to you free? So im thinking, why not? Sure. And he was like, ai, you are not afraid of…. Sheeit. It’s a bit unsettling. Almost as though it permeates everywhere. I’ve never really experienced this before- im sure in mombasa people are more superstitious but ai, not in Nairobi.
Anyway, we drove around, breath-taking. I do want to live by the ocean, for real. Later after B’s show was over we went to pick her up at the radio station and went for early dinner. Took pictures by the Indian Ocean of ships, boats going by, of course the African sunset (is there a set of pictures from Africa complete without this?). Oh, and Tusker beer is better than Kilimanjaro- the tzed beer. Anyway, we are going to Zanzibar tomorrow!!
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